history / tourism / grief

He read the names of those that had disappeared, those that had been abducted in the middle of the night by agents of Dirección Nacional de Inteligencia (DINA) from their families and brought here, tortured and killed and now thirty years later, in their absense, their families responded: "presente." A chill went down my spine.

A couple of weeks ago I attended a ceremony outside what had been for so many years a derelict building, known now primarily by its address: Londres 38. In the early years of the Pinochet dictatorship, opponents of the regime were being rounded up, tortured and murdered, many of them were students, activists in there twenties. AQUI SE TORTURO Y ASESINO. Here thery were tortured and murdered. For years relatives of the victims fought for recognition, every week standing in vigil outside the former DINA interogation centre that remains government property, lighting candles and pasting posters of their missing love ones on the walls of Londres 38 and every Thursday a government employee would paint over them in a dull battleship grey. On 14 October 2008, a little over thirty-five years after the democratically elected government of Chile was overthrown by a military coup, the president, Salvador Allende committing suicide as the army of Augusto Pinochet surrounded La Moneda (the presidential palace), I attended a ceremony marking the commencement of construction. Londres 38 is to be made into a memorial for those, los desaparecidos (the disappeared) that were killed by that regime.

I suppose it's moments like this where you have to wonder what the hell you're doing at something like this. Watching old women cry over sons and daughters, still living in the moment they were taken from them, you really have to ask whether you have any right to be there. When Claudia asked me if I would be interested in going, I said yeah sure, it sounds interesting but the reality was something else; was this grief tourism? I asked myself.

I recall a heated discussion that I had with Claudia and a couple others a few weeks prior while we were holidaying down in the south of Chile. We met a British couple who had been in Chile for the ski season and with that finished, were heading into Argentina. They'd stayed in the nicest of resorts, and other than the ski slopes and the occasional pisco sour they were happy to stay hermetically sealled from the rest of Chile and its history. They knew nothing about Pinochet or Britain's complicity in the deaths of thousands of Chileans and this irritated Claudia. They had come to her country without the slightest idea about Chile's past. She was right to be annoyed, but then I guess I entered Chile with only the vaguest of details. For christsake, the Lonely Planet pretty much says, Pinochet came to power in a Military Coup and some years later retired. Subtext I guess is that Pinochet is not polite discussion in Chile. However I told Claudia that there was no point dwelling on the ignorance of other people especially when this couple seemed generally shocked by what Claudia had told them. It was a far better story to tell that this British couple had learnt something and would go on to educate others in turn. So I thought anyway.

So maybe this helps legitimate my presence at Londres 38, but there are limits I think to this. As the doors opened and the relatives moved in to place flowers and to grieve, I stopped. "Claudia," I said, "I can't go in. If you want photos you'll need to take them yourself" and I handed her my camera.

Maybe I'll go back when the memorial opens.